A Horse Training Secret From The 1800's To Teach A Horse To Drive Without Lines!

 

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Horse owners who are history buffs may recognize the name Jesse Beery. Beery was an enormously famous horse trainer from the 1800's and early 1900's.

He learned to train horses at a very young age. It was clear he had a gift for horse training and made it his life's work.

Among the almost countless things Beery could do with a horse, he taught them tricks. One of the most amazing tricks he taught was teaching a horse to drive without lines. (In layman's terms, you have no long reins (known as lines) connected to the horse. The only connection to the horse is the buggy hitched to the horse) This trick almost defies belief!

Beery said this about driving a horse without lines: "While I do not advocate it as being a universally practical way of driving a horse, yet it is possible to so thoroughly train the horse to certain signals that he can be controlled more reliably under excitement and in case of danger than it would be possible to manage him with bridle and lines."

Beery says there are a number of ways to teach this to a horse but suggests his method as the most reliable.

In a nutshell, Beery first turned his horse loose in an enclosure about twenty-five feet square. He would walk in with a whip and teach the horse to have confidence in him and not fear the whip. (The horse is never whipped).

Once the horse has learned to come to handler at the command of "Come Here" and shows no fear of the whip while it's gently waved over his head and body, and will follow the handler all about the ring, then you have laid a good foundation for further instruction.

Put the horse away until the next day where the horse learns signals of the whip.

That process is as follows: Stand close the the horse's hip and take a short whip and tap lightly on the right shoulder until the horse, in anticipation of driving a fly off, will swing his head around to where the tapping is. Step forward quickly and hand him a few oats, or a small piece of apple, almost in the act of turning his head around. Step back and continue the tapping and rewarding.

After a while, in his eagerness for the reward, he will take a step or two to the right when the tapping begins. Then caress him and treat him very kindly for that act. Soon, the idea will be conveyed that when tapped on the shoulder the horse will know to turn in that direction.

Remember to train both sides of the horse.

Once both sides are trained now an open bridle can be put on. Use short lines that come back as far as his tail only - but they are used only if he becomes unruly or to convey your idea to him.

The handler's whip should not be over five feet long at this stage and the handler should stand directly behind the horse. (Beware of kickers) Let the whip extend to about the middle of his mane.

The signal you wish for him to stop for is raising the whip and holding it in a perpendicular position. Associate the meaning of this movement, and position, just as the whip is raised so the horse can see it. Pull hard on the reins and say "Whoa" - all at the same time. After a few repetitions the horse will know what to do. (Assuming you have thoroughly educated your horse to whoa)

The first few times he stops without a pull of the reins step forward and reward him immediately. Much of the success of teaching this trick depends upon how you give the rewards. If the reward is given in a manner so that the horse can fully comprehend it was complying with the handler's wish, it will greatly enhance fixing this impression on the horse's brain.

But if not given in the right manner, the reward will be worse than none at all.

In the same manner, the horse is taught to turn left and right. This is done by giving the horse a pretty smart tap on the lower part of the shoulder and immediately place the point of the whip three or four feet in that direction. Should he attempt to jump and go ahead too much, you can hold him in check with the action and signal to stop him.

He learned to train horses at a very young age. It was clear he had a gift for horse training and made it his life's work.

Among the almost countless things Beery could do with a horse, he taught them tricks. One of the most amazing tricks he taught was teaching a horse to drive without lines. (In layman's terms, you have no long reins (known as lines) connected to the horse. The only connection to the horse is the buggy hitched to the horse) This trick almost defies belief!

Beery said this about driving a horse without lines: "While I do not advocate it as being a universally practical way of driving a horse, yet it is possible to so thoroughly train the horse to certain signals that he can be controlled more reliably under excitement and in case of danger than it would be possible to manage him with bridle and lines."

Beery says there are a number of ways to teach this to a horse but suggests his method as the most reliable.

In a nutshell, Beery first turned his horse loose in an enclosure about twenty-five feet square. He would walk in with a whip and teach the horse to have confidence in him and not fear the whip. (The horse is never whipped).

Once the horse has learned to come to handler at the command of "Come Here" and shows no fear of the whip while it's gently waved over his head and body, and will follow the handler all about the ring, then you have laid a good foundation for further instruction.

Put the horse away until the next day where the horse learns signals of the whip.

That process is as follows: Stand close the the horse's hip and take a short whip and tap lightly on the right shoulder until the horse, in anticipation of driving a fly off, will swing his head around to where the tapping is. Step forward quickly and hand him a few oats, or a small piece of apple, almost in the act of turning his head around. Step back and continue the tapping and rewarding.

After a while, in his eagerness for the reward, he will take a step or two to the right when the tapping begins. Then caress him and treat him very kindly for that act. Soon, the idea will be conveyed that when tapped on the shoulder the horse will know to turn in that direction.

Remember to train both sides of the horse.

Once both sides are trained now an open bridle can be put on. Use short lines that come back as far as his tail only - but they are used only if he becomes unruly or to convey your idea to him.

The handler's whip should not be over five feet long at this stage and the handler should stand directly behind the horse. (Beware of kickers) Let the whip extend to about the middle of his mane.

The signal you wish for him to stop for is raising the whip and holding it in a perpendicular position. Associate the meaning of this movement, and position, just as the whip is raised so the horse can see it. Pull hard on the reins and say "Whoa" - all at the same time. After a few repetitions the horse will know what to do. (Assuming you have thoroughly educated your horse to whoa)

The first few times he stops without a pull of the reins step forward and reward him immediately. Much of the success of teaching this trick depends upon how you give the rewards. If the reward is given in a manner so that the horse can fully comprehend it was complying with the handler's wish, it will greatly enhance fixing this impression on the horse's brain.

But if not given in the right manner, the reward will be worse than none at all.

In the same manner, the horse is taught to turn left and right. This is done by giving the horse a pretty smart tap on the lower part of the shoulder and immediately place the point of the whip three or four feet in that direction. Should he attempt to jump and go ahead too much, you can hold him in check with the action and signal to stop him.

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author
of several best selling horse training and horse care books.
For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com.
He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training
methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.

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How To Load A Horse Into A Trailer - Easy As Pie - Using Smart Horse Training!

 

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If there is an art to getting horses to load in a trailer, then this it.

The first thing that must happen is communication between the horse and his handler. The horse must understand what is required of him and the handler must make it easy to understand.

Thus, you must start by getting the horse to move forward in either direction. After a direction is established then get him moving in the opposite direction. A round pen is excellent for this purpose.

When the horse gets good at moving both directions then it's time to hook a lead rope to his halter and lunge him left and right. For instance, when you point left, the horse must know to go to your left. And vice versa for going right.

The final result should look like this. You're holding the lead rope while facing your horse. As you hold the lead rope in your right hand, you hook the middle of the lead rope with your left thumb. Lift it up and point to the left.

Your horse, now knowing what to do, immediately goes to your left. After a circle or two you switch hands and get the horse to go to your right.

When he gets good at that, then send (lunge) him through gate openings, barn door openings, etc. Also, lunge him in smaller spaces to help him deal with his natural claustrophobia. You can do this by lunging him between you and a fence. As he goes back and forth make the space between you and the fence smaller. Be careful not to get stepped on.

Now that he's good at that, you take him by the trailer. You open the door and let him sniff it. Then you step back and face your horse. You lunge him left and right in front of the trailer while he passes back and forth by the opening.

After all this pointing and sending your horse now knows what you want. You have communicated to him when you point left that he is to move left and so on.

The next step is to face him to the trailer. With his head facing into the trailer and you standing on his left side you then send (point) him into the trailer.

Some horses will simply jump right in the trailer where others may take more work.

If your horse doesn't go in after pointing and coaxing then take him away from the trailer and make him work. Now you want to convey the idea that being in the trailer means he can relax. Being outside the trailer means he has to work hard. Eventually, he'll catch on.

Once you have him in the trailer, pet him and let him relax. Talk to him. Let him know how good he did.

Obviously, getting a horse to load in a trailer isn't rocket science. But you can do it. It takes patience and work.

The first thing that must happen is communication between the horse and his handler. The horse must understand what is required of him and the handler must make it easy to understand.

Thus, you must start by getting the horse to move forward in either direction. After a direction is established then get him moving in the opposite direction. A round pen is excellent for this purpose.

When the horse gets good at moving both directions then it's time to hook a lead rope to his halter and lunge him left and right. For instance, when you point left, the horse must know to go to your left. And vice versa for going right.

The final result should look like this. You're holding the lead rope while facing your horse. As you hold the lead rope in your right hand, you hook the middle of the lead rope with your left thumb. Lift it up and point to the left.

Your horse, now knowing what to do, immediately goes to your left. After a circle or two you switch hands and get the horse to go to your right.

When he gets good at that, then send (lunge) him through gate openings, barn door openings, etc. Also, lunge him in smaller spaces to help him deal with his natural claustrophobia. You can do this by lunging him between you and a fence. As he goes back and forth make the space between you and the fence smaller. Be careful not to get stepped on.

Now that he's good at that, you take him by the trailer. You open the door and let him sniff it. Then you step back and face your horse. You lunge him left and right in front of the trailer while he passes back and forth by the opening.

After all this pointing and sending your horse now knows what you want. You have communicated to him when you point left that he is to move left and so on.

The next step is to face him to the trailer. With his head facing into the trailer and you standing on his left side you then send (point) him into the trailer.

Some horses will simply jump right in the trailer where others may take more work.

If your horse doesn't go in after pointing and coaxing then take him away from the trailer and make him work. Now you want to convey the idea that being in the trailer means he can relax. Being outside the trailer means he has to work hard. Eventually, he'll catch on.

Once you have him in the trailer, pet him and let him relax. Talk to him. Let him know how good he did.

Obviously, getting a horse to load in a trailer isn't rocket science. But you can do it. It takes patience and work.

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author
of several best selling horse training and horse care books.
For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com.
He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training
methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.

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I'll never forget one of the first horses I trained by myself. I could not have picked a better horse to give me problems.

This horse was slow to motivate. He was very much his own "person" so to speak and was going to do what he pleased...at least...that's how it seemed.

There are plenty of horses in this world that will move when you want them to move. In fact, some horses can be so nervous it takes little effort to get them moving in the round pen. In a way, they almost train themselves.

When I was first training this horse he moved slowly and not very deliberately. Teaching him to drive was very difficult because he just wasn't going to move for me.

The first time I put a surcingle on him and attached the lines he had no more intention on moving forward than an elephant with no legs.

The lesson I was teaching was to move forward. When you want your horse to move then, obviously, you want him to move...not stand there.

A typical way to teach moving forward and associating the action with a command is to get behind your horse and to the left a little. Then give a slight pull on the left rein, then say "step" or "get up" and tap him on his rear end with the whip.

Most every horse I worked with, this technique worked well. But the technique failed with this horse.

Whenever I tapped him on the butt he would either stand there and blink his eyes or he would turn around and just look at me.

To the trained trainer it may seem he was balking. In fact, that's what I feared was happening.

The next thing I tried to get him moving was a hog slapper. A hog slapper is a small pole like aid with a handle on one end and two pieces of leather on the other end. When you slap the leather end against your boots it makes a loud slapping sound.

It was the loud slapping sound I was hoping would motivate the horse to move. Here's what happened.

Nothing.

The horse didn't take any steps forward to get away from it. It scared him a little the first two or three times I slapped it on my boot, but that's all it did.

Frustrated and bewildered I wasn't sure what to do next.

I began to analyze the situation. I knew the tap with the whip wasn't working so I didn't need to repeat trying it. I knew the hog slapper didn't work so I didn't need to repeat that either.

So I asked myself, "What can I use to motivate this horse to move?"

I got the answer from Jesse Beery.

Jesse Beery, a famous horse trainer from the 1800's, taught training a horse to drive in much the same way I do it. Even the tap on the rear end with the whip is the same.

In teaching a horse to overcome fears and desensitizing him to sounds, Beery prescribes using metal bowls strung together like a wind chime on rope. These bowls make quite a racket when you shake them. Used as Beery describes, they are extremely effective in horse training.

So I thought these noise makers would motivate my horse to move. After all, they are loud and obnoxious when they clank together and make noise.

So I tacked up the horse, grabbed my noise maker, and tried again.

As I was fumbling with the lines and the noise maker trying to get situated, I nearly dropped the noise maker and it made a pretty good racket. Almost the second it rattled, the horse moved away from it.

Immediately I had a glimmer of hope that this was my answer.

So I tried it all again. I gave a slight pull on the left line, I then said "get up", and then I rattled the bowls.

The result?

Nothing except the horse raising his head and looking behind him a little. But I knew that meant I was getting his attention.

So I tried it again.

This time, he took about 3 steps forward and stopped. I was thrilled. I walked up to him and rewarded him with a caress.

Then I stepped back and did it again.

It wasn't long before I didn't have to use my noise maker anymore. All I had to do was say "get up" and he'd move. Not only did he move, he moved with energy.

Although this horse was very frustrating I must admit I am grateful to him. Why? Because he taught me valuable lessons.

The first lesson I relearned was patience.

The second lesson was that not everything will work on the same way on every horse. This was a lesson I already knew but it was reinforced.

The third lesson learned was to reexamine what I knew about horses and use that knowledge to get him doing what I needed him to do. That's why I tried the noise maker.

I knew certain noises frighten horses so I decided to manipulate his fear with the noise maker. I also knew to be careful not to terrorize him. After all, you want to use as little of that kind of motivation as possible. Only use what is just enough.

Fourth, he taught me to keep looking for an answer because one exists even though I didn't know it at the time.

Fifth, if I ever run across another horse that's hard to motivate to move, then I will pull out my noise makers because it worked before.

As I patted myself on the back for coming up with the noise maker idea I was actually feeling grateful for having such a difficult horse. I realized having a difficult horse was a great teacher to me - and I have absolutely loved having difficult horses since.

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

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How To Use Smart Horse Training To Stop Your Horse From Bucking

 

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It can be enormously frightening to be on a bucking horse. If you're a novice rider, a bucking horse can almost force you to give up the "owning a horse" dream. But it doesn't have to be that way.

I've read where people who can ride a bucking horse feel they're a good rider. That may be. But it doesn't mean they're good at training. And training is what we want to do.

Preventing bucking begins when the horse is a colt. One must go to every extent in his training so he won't be inclined to buck - and that includes preventing bucking if he tries.

Naturally, that doesn't help you if your horse bucks already. Thus, if your horse bucks then the question is whether or not it is solvable. The answer is: Usually.

The first thing to do is try and figure out why he bucks. This may be done by trying to eliminate the causes.

As a for instance, one of the most common causes of bucking is that the rider punishes the horse's mouth without knowing it. Also, he may be giving the horse conflicting aids. For instance, the rider may boot his horse forward and jerk on the reins to slow him down. Then the rider jerks his head around to turn him. As the horse fights this the rider gets mad and boots him hard again.

Finally, the horse bucks. Why? Because he's absolutely frustrated.

Thus, fixing your riding habits to ones that make sense and are thoughtful for your horse will solve that problem. If you're a novice rider then riding lessons will help you immensely.

As you ride, ride relaxed. Focus on the feel of your horse. Give him the aid or signal to do what you want. Don't over exaggerate it. Give just enough signal to get him doing what you want then let it be.

If you plan to put him into a lope from a walk or trot, or vice versa, then think ahead and do it in a relaxed fluid manner. Don't surprise or startle your horse. Keep him relaxed. A relaxed horse is not going to buck.

Another solution may be changing bits. If you are using a curb bit perhaps you should try going to a snaffle. A snaffle is easier on a horse's mouth. It will still maintain contact with your horse and help him relax.

Another common time a horse bucks is when the rider asks the horse to canter or lope. A horse will sometimes buck in the canter because it's natural for him to. It could also happen if the rider signals his horse too suddenly and severely in asking for the canter.

You see, a lot of people think they have to boot their horse hard to get the canter- - and when they do, they jerk on the horse's mouth when they boot him. Or, the rider may ride with loose reins so the horse will canter and then jerk his mouth to try and slow the horse down right when he begins cantering.

I don't know if you spotted it yet but what's happening here is that the horse is getting confused. Not only that, it's also hurting the horse.

After all, put yourself in your horse's place. If you were asked to canter and the second you did you felt a painful jerk on your mouth...wouldn't you be a little upset? And if it happened every time, wouldn't you think to yourself, "I gotta get this jerk off my back - he's killin' me!"

Now let's say you don't know why your horse is bucking. Let's assume your riding habits are good and your horse bucks anyway.

Here are some helpful suggestions.

First, if your horse bucks you then it is crucial you don't stop him. If you do, he learns that if he wants to stop all he has to do is buck. Very quickly, you'll have a smart horse who knows that to stop he only has to buck.

So, instead of stopping, do this.

First, brace your arms against your body yet keep them relaxed and keep contact with your horse. While doing this, lean back and drive your horse to go forward. (Making a horse go forward is a big horse training secret to help you get your horse's cooperation and obedience.)

Because you brace your arms, it makes your horse's head go up and driving him forward makes his attempts at bucking hard enough he'll quit trying to buck. The point is the horse cannot buck when he is moving forward with energy.

The next step is you must continue moving your horse forward with energy using your seat and legs until he quits trying to buck - be sure to control his speed.

Sometimes it's necessary to hold your horse's head up to stop the bucking while moving him forward. If you need to do that then be sure not to pull his head back. Instead pull it up. You do that by extending your arms and pull up.

If you have a horse that bucks whenever he feels like it then he should be doubled. The trick is to do it on the first buck if you can. Double him then boot him out of it with energy. Then double him the other way and boot him out of it and put him in a trot and make him keep moving.

Remember the horse must slow down to buck. If you can tell your horse is slowing down and getting ready to buck then boot him forward and pick up the pace.

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

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They say the eyes are are the gateway to the soul. When it was said, they were referring to us humans. But the truth is, it also refers to horses.

Many horse owners don't understand the importance and usefulness of the horse's eyes while training. That being so, let me share with you some things you may find useful - some you may know...some you may not.

First, there's the eye which reveals a little about the character of the horse you're working with. It may have a kind eye. A kind eye indicates the horse will be agreeable to train and will readily respond to your aids while training.

One way to tell if the horse is nervous is by noting his eyes. Horses can be very expressive in their looks. And you can tell if a horse is a nervous horse by the eyes appearing sort of "worried like."

Obviously, this nervous horse would require more thoughtful handling than would a non-nervous horse.

I have a horse that would get mad after a while of riding. She used to get what I call mad eyes. Her expression was actually a sort of angry expression. Mostly, the expression came from her eyes. Here eyes would get red after a while.

Jesse Beery, a famous horse trainer from the 1800's, talked a lot about the eyes of the horse. Even those many years ago he knew about the horse's eyes. Beery discovered there were four different disposition types of a horse. Certain characteristics of the eyes would tell you much about the horse's personality and how much work it would be to train the horse.

Berry's classic disposition type 3 was most interesting. Beery said "Where type #2 will allow you to do all the work, type 3 will do all the work for you. You only need to control its movements."

In all my training experience and many things I've read, I concur with Beery's discovery. The eyes play an enormous role in horse training.

To read more about Beery and his methods, you can go to this web address:

http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beery_etips.htm

There is still more to know about the horse's eyes.

For one, when you work with a horse, it's advisable to look him in the eye a lot. Why? Because horse's an extremely observant animal and they study their surroundings. If you're in their surroundings they are studying you too. If they see you looking at them in the eye it sends a message to them about who is in control.

If you're working with a horse that's cunning and known to run over people then you rarely want to lose eye contact with this horse. Sometimes when you look away for just a second he knows it's his chance to charge at you. But keeping eye contact helps minimize that possibility.

Although a horse's ears are part of the plan. the eyes are how the horse interprets his world. The horse gladly desires to approach an object or person that has caused him pleasure. Likewise, he runs from objects or persons that cause him pain. (Pain could be a number of things like work, misuse of aids such as spurs, being talked to in an abrasive manner, etc.)

Lots of horse owners get discouraged with their horse because they develop bad habits. One particular habit is kicking. I once read a great book on horses and it said this about kicking:

If a horse kicks at a man and sees he inspired the man with fear and makes him draw back, he will remember this and kick any man who goes near him whom he fears or has the memory of displeasure with.

Note the author said "...and see he inspired the man with fear". The point is the horse "saw" the man was inspired with fear. The horse used one of his greatest tools...his eyes. If a man shows no fear and knows how to handle a kicker, the horse will "see" he cannot inspire fear in the man and be less apt to kick (although, if confirmed in the habit of kicking, it may require several training sessions to eradicate this from the horse's memory).

In short, the eyes are the mirror of the horse's mind. Quiet eyes indicate quietness and sincerity. Quick and lively eye indicate vivacity. Restless eyes turning in all directions indicate suspicion and show the horse is studying all around him and may perhaps be preparing some freak of self will. Turbid eyes indicate fear or anger.

There's a proverb that tells us not to trust the horse that shows the white of his eyes. Perhaps it's because the white shows when he's looking sideways and he's intent on seizing the moment when no attention is being paid for escape or attack.

I could go on about the eyes but this hopefully gives you a great idea as to how important the horse's eyes are. Make it a habit to continually watch the horse's eyes. Learn what he is thinking by learning his eyes.

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

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Horse Training Gets A New Face Lift From A 108 Year Old Horse Training Manual!

 

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If you have a passion to learn all you can about horse training, then you will want to know about a 108 year old horse training manual recently revived from a dusty old book shelf of a used book store.

This horse training manual was written in the late 1800's by a then world famous horse trainer named Jesse Beery.

In Beery's manual he explains the different steps it takes to train a horse to be gentle, safe, reliable, and valuable.

Although this is a very basic example, Beery describes the number one abuse of a command given to horses by their riders. The command is "whoa". The reason this command is so abused is because the rider will often say "whoa" while riding when they want the horse to slow down.

Very quickly, the horse associates the word "whoa" with slowing down instead of stopping. Soon, the frustrated horse owner wonders why his horse won't stop when he says "whoa".

Beery reminds the reader to say "whoa" ONLY when you want the horse to stop. Pick a different command for the horse to slow down.

Furthermore, Beery explains with great detail how to teach a horse to stop - even under any circumstance. This lesson, according to Beery, is THE MOST important one of all.

Beery also describes in his book how to cure different vices a horse may have. For instance, if a horse is a confirmed biter and has been for a long time, Beery gives clear instruction on how to stop it for good.

Even better is the instruction Beery offers for horses that jump fences. In the book, you see a picture of a simple apparatus put on a horse to keep him from jumping. Beery says "When this simple appliance is on your horse, he can lie down and get up, eat, or do anything but run fast or jump. This is the best, most reliable, and safest remedy that has ever been devised for fence jumpers."

Unfortunately, this book is rare enough that few copies exist. The copies that exist are not always readable due to fading and age. Thus, good copies are very pricey.

American horse trainer Andy Curry discovered a legible copy from a used book store on a dusty shelf. Curry was able to make copies available to horse owners who want to learn about Beery's methods.

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

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Thoroughbred Race Horse Breakdown- The Story Of Spider And Training

 

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A client of mine had a horse named Spider. Spider is a Thoroughbred gelding right off the race track. I used to shoe Spider before he was sold off by my client. I rather liked him. He was big and warm hearted and really wanted to please. He had terrible feet. Flat footed thin soled and weak hoof wall. Spider also had coffin bone problems and we eventually put a custom shoe on him to protect the frog. By now you probably understand I’m a Farrier.

My client, who owned Spider wasn’t much of a horse person, lacking comprehension of slight discipline principles. As a result Spider was what I call less than dialed in with regard to ground manners and basic good behavior, basically Spider was confused.

You see Spider had gone from “Race track training” through western training and then through English training and really not finished at any. He didn’t do well at the track so his career was cut short and race horses don’t usually get much in the area of discipline. Poor Spider had gone through too many different trainers and disciplines which really resulted in him getting into trouble too many times for not knowing what to do. Just too many different styles.

Interesting enough Spider would win in the English riding arena. It is interesting because where he could perform well enough to win his ground training was next to nil. Basically Spider was “Not Broke”. My guess was it all started at the race track where they many times don’t like to discipline horses at all hoping not to take any of the spirit out of the horses. The point is since Spider would win his owner was keeping him.

Now this is where the story takes a turn. I was invited on a ride with Spider’s owner and I was to ride Pirate the other horse owned along with Spider. Of course Pirate has one eye as you may have wondered. Now the ride commences and it’s a three hour ride to the half way point. Now Spider is all over the trail, fish tailing this way then that the whole 3 hours and getting progressively worse. To make matters worse Spider’s rider is also getting progressively more irritated and getting more and more heavy into Spider’s mouth with the bit reprimanding him for not settling down.

While this was an accident in the waiting I finally suggested giving poor Spider his head instead of yanking on the bit constantly. It helped but the battle continued for the remaining three hours back to where the ride started. Wow, what an ordeal.

We unsaddle the horses, wash them down, brush them out and it just so happens there was a huge football field size pasture of nothing but green grass right by our wash rack. So of course out into the grass was the reward for the horses. Well poor Spider as soon as he hits the grass just lays himself down and proceeds to just completely check out of reality. He lies there quivering and jerking with eyes rolling and completely oblivious to his surroundings. What on earth was the problem?

Now a crowd is gathering (this was a Poker ride there were several hundred people) “he’s tying up some would say” Get him electrolytes, do you want us to call the vet? “He’s dehydrated” or is he going to be ok and the panic starts to set in everyone so worried about Spider as he lay there just quivering. Remember now I know Spider, I’d been shoeing Spider for almost 5 years. So I had tuned into what was going on. Spider was having a nervous breakdown. A breakdown from all the confusion.

Spider had been getting into trouble probably all his life, different handlers always asking different things of him and no one really getting it right. Spider was just totally confused. This day after 6 hours of constant struggle and confusion on the trail Spider had finally just had enough. Totally fed up Spider joined himself with the earth – the only place or thing he knows always supports and sustains him. So far “His only true friend” his only source of real nourishment emotionally and spiritually perhaps as well.

So my remark to the crowd as they all panicked was “No we don’t need a vet or electrolytes just give him a minute he’ll snap out of it”. Of course everyone else knows better, everyone is a horse specialist and I was basically ignored. I mean what good were electrolytes to do anyway while the horse is completely passed out. I was lying next to Spider patting his neck and stroking him and his eyes are just completely shut and he has absolutely no clue what’s going on around him – He’s OUT, what were they to do feed him electrolytes intravenously or tube it down his throat?

Well about 10 minutes of Spider lying there and before the electrolytes show up sure enough Spider starts blinking, rolls his eyes around in his head and snaps out of it. Doesn’t take long and he’s back on his feet still blinking and rolling his eyes and finally comes to his senses and begins to eat some of the lush grass. Wow.

Horses do and can have nervous breakdowns, I’m convinced of it.

You know as horse owners and handlers and trainers it’s our obligation to tune into horses and also take care of them emotionally. We need to be as sensitive as the horses themselves are sensitive. If we overlook this aspect of horse ownership we’re missing a great piece of the joy of horses. Horses give so much of themselves if we just listen, if we take the time to tune into them.

The story of Spider is a tragedy. This type of thing should “Never” happen to horses. Now the sad part of this story is Spider was sold off because the owner not knowing how to handle poor ole Spider decided he wasn’t worth keeping and passed him off to yet another person and possibly the pattern keeps repeating itself and Spider possibly cast further into the abyss. We can only hope at this point Spider found a match with someone that has the capacity to understand him and the wonderful mystery horses share and allow us to experience with them.

As horse owners this is something we should all aspire and strive for. The horses deserve no less. Otherwise you’re basically just riding hard and putting them away wet.

I guess there are two kinds of people – those that do – and those that don’t. Which one are you?

This article is aimed at enlightening people to the deeper aspects and responsibilities of horse ownership. Another area that should not be overlooked is shoeing and caring for horse’s feet. The author of this article has a 16 year 100% track record with shoeing horses- Not One Single Lame Horse and we urge you to research his method. You’ll find a link to the shoeing information in the Author Bio below. Just click there. Best wishes and remember to Care4Horses.

Reprint rights allowed providing nothing is changed.

John Silveira, Farrier, Aikido practitioner, spiritualist, born and raised in San Mateo California the bay area. For information on his shoeing method and the 100% track record just go to http://Care4Horses.com and leave contact information. thank you and remember to Care4Horses

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Amazing Insights Of A Horse Training Expert From The Late 1800's!

 

>>  You Too Can Have a Beautifully Behaved Horse Click Here To Know HOW <<

 

Could a horse trainer, born about 154 years ago, teach us anything new today? Would the methods be old hat or would they be useful?

The answer is a resounding Yes!, they are enormously useful.

The horse training expert referred to is named Jesse Beery. Beery was a world famous horse trainer from the late 1800's who possessed amazing ability with horses.

Fortunately, Beery's secrets remain after all these years. His information can be found in his book he wrote in the late 1800's. However, very few copies of his book exist. It is virtually impossible to find an original - much less one that is readable.

Here is a partial reading from the first chapter of Beery's book:

Fear is the principal motive which causes the colt to resist training. It is natural for him to kick against an unknown object at his heels, to pull his head out of the halter as from a trap, and if of a bad disposition, to strike and bite if he does not thoroughly understand you.

His fear is governed by his sense of touch, sight and hearing; and it is through these senses we obtain a mastery, and at the same time remove his fears of the halter, the robe, the harness and the wagon. These are the fixed laws which govern the actions of all horses, and the training of a colt is merely teaching him not to fear the working apparatus, but to respect his master, and to obey his commands as soon as he has learned their meaning.

Each one of these senses must be educated before the colt is trained. A colt's education may be compared with that of a child to a great extent. A horse's reasoning powers are limited to his past experience. So we must reason with him by acts alone. Hence the importance of beginning every step with the colt right; for by our acts he learns.

The successful school-master aims first to teach the child to have confidence in him. Hence the first lesson we give the colt is simply to teach it to have confidence in us and that we are its best friend and don't intend to hurt it.

The book continues with the first lesson a colt is to have which is

"How to gain a colt's confidence."

Fortunately, horse trainer Andy Curry discovered a legible copy and made it available for horse owners who want to learn this incredible information.

Andy Curry encourages responsible horse owners to check into Jesse Beery's book and learn what it has to teach.

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm

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Good Ground Manners - The Essentials Of Horse Training

 

>>  You Too Can Have a Beautifully Behaved Horse Click Here To Know HOW <<

 

Ground Manners - An Overview

Horse training success is all in the work from the ground. A good, long-term relationship between you and your horse is built from the ground up, literally. Ground manners is about teaching your horse how to behave around humans and that you are his protector and friend. The two go hand in hand by building leadership respect and trust. The time dedicated to building a proper foundation by establishing control on the ground is well worth the effort involved.

Why would you want to bother with ground manners? Well, safety issues are a good start. An untrained or poorly trained horse with bad habits such as biting, kicking, rearing and charging (among others) is dangerous. A horse can kill a person with these behaviors. The horse can injure himself, for example, by rearing and banging his head on a low ceiling. Horses do knock themselves out, cut their heads on a nail or sharp corner and require stitches. Just think of the vet bills. And the panic you'd feel in this situation. Or think of the litigation if your horse kicked someone, injuring them so they were unable to work. These things do happen. Teaching a horse good ground manners is teaching a horse that these are unacceptable and unnecessary reactions.

The horse that won't stand still is a danger. One day you'll be caught in the wrong spot, he'll get a fright and someone will be hurt. The horse that keeps leaning into you and treading on your (soon to be broken) foot is not fun. The horse that tries to kick when you pick out his feet is going to injure you one day. Good ground manners is about teaching a horse to respect your personal space.

The nervous or disobedient horse is also a danger. The jumpy horse that shies and knocks you over is a liability. The horse that loses his mind and tries to run every time he sees a plastic bag is more than a nuisance. Ground manners is about showing your horse that scary things aren't so scary and to have confidence in you. To trust that you, as leader and protector, will always keep him safe.

Good manners on the ground makes the transition to riding much smoother and much much simpler. You will have learned to read your horse’s feelings or mood. He is not your servant. He is your partner. He will have learned unquestioned obedience. As a result, your riding sessions will be more fun.

Taking the time to lay firm foundations will also mean that you will be training a horse that is willing to please, that is EASIER TO TRAIN IN THE LONG RUN, that is a joy to work with and not an obstinate animal that is always acting out. When you choose to own a horse, you're making a commitment for many years, so you want to be sure you're going to have a well-behaved and easy to handle horse-friend.

The Basics Of Ground Manners For Your Horse

Teaching good ground manners right from the beginning will result in a horse that is a joy to own, while keeping yourself as safe as possible. Enforcing ground manners will teach your horse to:

* Look to you as leader for what to do whenever he is unsure of a situation (less likely to bolt, shy or be disobedient in new situations)
* Not crowd your personal space (no kicking, biting, charging, leaning, treading on your feet etc)
* Respond appropriately to whatever you are asking him to do
* Have calm confidence in the outside world because you will protect him
* Stand still patiently
* Tie calmly
* Allow you to pick up his feet for cleaning
* Allow you to groom him
* Calmly accept being bridled, haltered and led
* Accept being saddled without moving
* Refrain from nipping, kicking, charging or rearing to get his way

All this BEFORE you get on his back. It is actually a good idea to spend some time with a new horse on getting these basics right before you start riding. Despite how eager you will probably be to hop on and go, spend a few weeks or even months working on ground manners. It pays off in the end. If you're having trouble with riding your horse, it may also be a wise investment of time to stop riding for a while and get these basics back on track.

So how do you instill those good ground manners in your horse? By understanding how a horse's mind works. There are 6 basic principles you need to learn that apply to all horse situations.

1. Repetition
It is not widely known that a horse can take around 60 iterations of a lesson to 'get it'. That's right. It may take you repeating the exact same lesson 60 times before your horse understands what you are trying to teach. To put this in perspective, if you see your horse once a week and teach the same lesson once each time, then it may take over a year for your horse to learn it. Of course you may try the lesson more than once a session and you may see your horse more than once a week, but it takes TIME and PATIENCE to train a horse effectively.

The good news is that you can be successful in training your horse to have good behavior in any situation. This applies to all horses, whether they are young, old, previously poorly trained or have been in neglectful and abusive situations. You can teach your horse to lead, tone down aggressive behaviors towards people and other horses, teach a nervous horse to be calm, and get rid of bad habits horses learn such as rearing, biting, and kicking. All of this can be attained. But please remember that horse training takes as long as it takes. 60 repetitions is an average.

2. Be a leader to your horse
Horses are herd animals and are mentally wired to look up to the leader of the herd. In a herd, which is the natural situation for a horse, there is a pecking order (order of dominance). The stallion and lead mare are the leaders. Every other horse below them in the pecking order will look to these two to find out how to react in a given situation. If the leaders are calm, the others are calm, if the leaders are running for their lives, the rest of the herd is right behind them. It is also the leaders job to keep an eye out for danger. Or in other words, the leaders signal to the rest of the herd what is dangerous and what is safe. The rest of the herd has 100% faith in their leaders. They follow blindly. They do not think rationally or for themselves. This horse behavior makes a horse very easy to train.

To use this horse behavior to your advantage when you’re training your horse, the leader of his herd needs to be you. You MUST show, through your tone of voice, your body language, your confidence, that you are a leader. For example, you cannot expect a horse to walk calmly past a barking dog if you are frightened yourself. If there are situations around your horse that scare you, you need to be inventive and work out how to avoid the situation where your horse can see you as weak. If your horse often charges you, avoid the trigger situation until you have established dominance in other situations. Get outside help if you need it. A horse generally weighs as much as 10 times more than a human, so you cannot expect to out muscle your horse when it behaves inappropriately. It is crucial that you become the leader to your horse so he follows you, rather than dragging you around.

3. Consistency
Being a leader also means having a zero tolerance policy towards your horse invading your personal space or disobeying your requests. In the herd, the pecking order is often challenged. Stay vigilant as the pecking order is never set in stone. If you get slack, the horse will start to dominate you. Be firm, consistent and persistent in applying your rules. You're either training or de-training your horse every moment you're with him. Mind the small stuff. It really does matter. Your horse will test you in small ways to see how serious you are. If you don't hold your ground over your space or do accept a tardy response to a request, you're effectively eroding the respect he has for you. 'That's ok, I don't really mean stop when I say so'. This is then a green flag for your horse to try on bigger and bigger misbehaviors. For example, don't let your horse kiss you. Not just for reasons of hygiene! No, letting any horse nibble or kiss you is sending him down the slippery slope of developing a biting habit. After all, a bite is just a firm nibble isn't it? And a biting problem is not one you want to be dealing with. Painful for you, and difficult to get rid of. In this case, no kisses, no nibbles, no bites. Ever. Be firm, consistent and persistent in applying your ground rules. Absolute CONSISTENCY is the key to fast training.

4. Trust
One of the biggest reasons horses lack good ground manners is the fact they don't trust as well as respect the people who are handling them. Trust and respect go hand in hand and once you have attained that, the rest of your training is so much easier. As leader (where you earn respect), part of your job is to keep your horse SAFE (where you earn trust). That's safe from his perspective, not yours. You might think he's perfectly safe in a trailer, but if he's never been in one you'll need to show him that you'll go into one and that other horses agree it's safe too. Your job is to prove to your horse that no matter what goes on around him, he will not be harmed. Angry bullying won't work. Losing your temper won't work. Banging his teeth with the bit, slapping him unexpectedly on the rump, making loud, sudden noises and unexpected gestures don't help either. Let your horse know where you are and what you're up to as much as possible. Be calm, be considerate, be affectionate, be patient. This path leads to earning your horse's trust, an essential for a long and happy relationship.

5. Be fun
No one, even a horse, enjoys all work and no play. Remember to make your lessons enjoyable. Your aim is to encourage your horse to look forward to hanging out with you. What your horse likes will be individual, but most horses have a place on their body they like having scratched or rubbed. This can be a reward for obedience. Many horses enjoy the mental stimulation of a lesson if it's not repeated endlessly in one go. More than half an hour on any one lesson at once is too much. 10 or 15 minutes is enough. And horses like variety in their 'work'. So sometimes go out for a trail ride, sometimes do some jumping, sometimes work in the ring. Mix it up and keep it interesting. A bored horse is a cranky horse, and anyone in a bad mood is likely to misbehave.

6. Comfort
The horse likes a life of comfort. That means, a life free from irritants as well as pain. You can use his dislike of being irritated to your training advantage. Basically, you are looking for non-painful but annoying things you can do to encourage your horse to do as you ask. The key is to remove the irritant immediately when the horse does what you are asking. Stopping the annoying thing you were doing is his reward for doing as you asked. This is the most effective and yet gentle way to teach your horse to do what you ask

One example of irritant training is a technique called pressure and release. An example of pressure and release:
If you wanted your horse to turn its head to the left, you would put your hand in the halter strap and gently pull to the left just slightly. As soon as the horse begins to turn his head left, let go of the halter, releasing the pressure, and praise your horse quietly. If your horse were to pull to the right instead, you would continue to apply gentle pressure to the left until your horse complied, then release and praise again. Through patient, consistent repetition, your horse will learn what you are asking. This is the pressure and release training method in a nutshell, and can be applied throughout your horse's training.

So these are the 6 basics of teaching ground manners. Repetition; Be a leader; Consistency; Trust; Be fun; and Comfort. Apply these whenever you are around your horse and you will be well on the way to many happy times.

Phil Tragear
http://www.HorseTrainingSuccess.com
All the questions you've asked, answered.

Phil is author of the comprehensive book 'Horse Training Success', full of answers to the most asked horse training questions. Stop by http://www.horsetrainingsuccess.com for a huge selection of information regarding common problems, training of horses, equine psychology, how to get the best behavior and so much more!

Please feel free to use this article on condition that you maintain a live link to the http://www.horsetrainingsuccess.com website, acknowledge that the content is ©Phil Tragear 2006, and keep this paragraph included!

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Training Your Horses and Mules to Horse Hobbles

 

>>  You Too Can Have a Beautifully Behaved Horse Click Here To Know HOW <<

 

For your own safety and comfort and that of your stock, I highly recommend that you train your horses or mules to use Hobbles before trying to use them in the back country. Below I have outlined a very basic procedure that should quickly and easily accustom your horses and mules to hobbles. Regardless of whether you will be using two- or three-leg hobbles or picketing your stock, the first step will be essentially the same.

Two-Leg Hobbles
I recommend waiting a couple hours past normal feeding time and then putting your stock in a corral or round pen with a flake of hay. While they are eating, attach the hobbles to the front legs and give them a tug so that your horse or mule knows he is restrained. Because horses tend to think more about their stomachs, the initial hobbling experience will be a little less traumatic than a first time attempt in the backcountry. You can spread the hay out so that your stock has to walk around and realize that he is restrained. This process should be repeated to ensure your stock is comfortable with being hobbled before taking a pack trip.

Picket Hobble
Once again wait a couple hours past feeding time and put your stock in a corral with a flake of hay. Attach the picket hobble to a front leg and the picket rope to the Horse Hobble. Allow him to drag the picket rope without the picket pin attached until he is used to it. When you stake him out on grass or hay for the first time, take him out to the end of the rope and let him know he is restrained. Be sure to drive the pin straight into the ground. Your stock could pull out a pin driven in at an angle. If your horse is hungry, he should be too preoccupied with eating to have a bad first experience. This process should be repeated to ensure your stock is comfortable with picketing before taking a pack trip.

Three-Leg Hobbles
If your animal has figured out how to crow hop his way down the trail in two-leg hobbles, you may try using three-leg hobbles to keep him restrained. Even if he is used to two-leg hobbles, I highly recommend the same procedure as described above for introducing him to three-leg hobbles. Some animals may react poorly to having a back leg restrained and it would be best to find that out at home in your round pen rather than 20 miles from the trailhead.

In addition to grazing your stock in camp, Horse Hobbles are useful if you need to or choose to stop somewhere for a break where there isn't a place to tie up your animal. Many riders keep a set right on their saddle for just these situations.

*A Handy Tip:
I prefer neoprene two-leg hobbles when I graze my stock. After they finish grazing in the evening, I take one hobble off of one leg and buckle it above its mate on the other leg. This saves me time when I turn them out in the morning and I don't misplace the hobbles. This trick works well with neoprene hobbles, but may not work well with leather hobbles.

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The One-Minute Horse Training Manager

 

>>  You Too Can Have a Beautifully Behaved Horse Click Here To Know HOW <<

 

If your life is so busy you literally only have a minute or two a day to spend with your horse, then here are 5 smart training tips you can use to keep your horse "tuned up" when you have just minutes a day.

Smart Tip #1: Practice Backing Up

Suppose you just fed your horse some hay and he's eating. Assuming you have enough room to get beside him, put your finger into his chest and get him to back up. Getting a horse to back up is a basic and essential lesson horses should know. Plus, when you get a horse to move in a direction you want him to move, you earn respect from him.

Smart Tip #2: Practice Getting His Head Down

Just before you feed your horse approach him. When you get to him pet him a couple times. Then put your thumb and first finger on his poll and push down. Do not increase the pressure of the push. Instead, on a scale of one to ten, push at a one. Then say "head down". If he doesn't drop his head increase the pressure to a two. Then say "head down". Repeat the process increasing the pressure until his head drops.

When his head drops, reward him with a petting above the eyes on the forehead.

Over time, work on getting him to drop his head down where you can easily put on a halter.

Smart Tip #3: Quick Lunge

If you have a minute or two, before you feed your horse slip on a halter with a lead rope. Lunge your horse left and right a few times and get him to back up and come forward. You can accomplish this in just about two minutes.

Smart Tip #4: Pick Up The Feet

Before feeding your horse, go pick up his feet. You should start with the front feet. Remember to reward each time he does what you ask. Then go to the back feet. If your horse is sensitive about picking up his feet you can make amazing breakthroughs over time by doing this in just minutes a day.

Smart Tip #5: Brush Your Horse

Before feeding, approach your horse with a halter and brush in hand. Put on the halter then brush him. You do this because you want him to associate the halter with pleasure and he'll come to you almost every time. Thus, whenever you want to ride or work with him, and you approach with a halter, he's more willing to let you catch him.

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm

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Was he the world's greatest horse trainer of all time? Would his picture be in the horse trainer's Hall Of Fame? Perhaps.

His name was Jesse Beery. Before he was twenty he became a world class horse trainer. He was so well known, there were more people who heard of him than didn't.

Jesse Beery learned how to train horses almost entirely on his own because there were few people who knew how to train a horse.

Beery's parents discouraged horse training as a career but later okay'd his passion. From then on there was no stopping Beery from achieving greatness.

Beery's first inclination to train horses happened when he drove a horse and buggy to a friend's house. As Beery exited the buggy the horse spooked and ran home. During that long walk home Beery was determined to make his horse stay put.

As he worked with his horse he discovered ways to get a horse to do what he wanted. Although nearly killed in training incidents and laughed at from friends and neighbors, Beery soon became THE authority on horse training.

Beery's methods solved numerous problems with horses that seemed unsolvable. If a horse was hard to shoe, ran away, pulled while tied, spooky, and more...Beery knew how to fix it.

As if his accomplishments weren't enough to keep him busy, Beery wrote a Horse Training manual describing how to do what he did. Unfortunately, few copies exist today and those that do may be hard to read due to the poor condition of these very old books.

Beery's book may be available in used book stores if one is motivated to search. Be prepared for a time consuming search - but if a Beery book is found in good condition, be ready to pay a handsome price.

There may be an alternative. Beery's book was recently revived by horse trainer Andy Curry. Curry discovered Beery's book in a used book store by accident.

Curry says, "This is one of the most amazing books I've EVER read about horse training. Beery explains his methods so clearly it's like he's there with you...holding your hand...showing what to do. Every responsible horse owner should have a copy of this book - period!"

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

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5 Minute Training - Running at Your Horse

 

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I want to make my horses as safe as possible in a variety of situations. Therefore I try to expose them to as many situations as possible. Although I would never advocate approaching your horse at a full sprint I think there are good reasons to let your horse get some experience around fast moving objects. For example, I was leading a couple of yearlings to my arena. I just walked through the gate and was heading for a holding stall next to the arena. For some reason after my daughter walked through the gate she decided to run towards my horses approaching them from behind. She was well out of the way from their hind legs but one of the horses spooked, which spooked the other and they both started to run. I was just about stepped on by one of the horses. This situation could have caused someone, me, to get hurt.

My first option was to blame my daughter and tell her never to do that. While I did discuss with her why she shouldn’t run up to a horse from any angle, I also realized that this was a situation that could have happened anywhere and will most likely happen again. In fact, it could have been many things that would have caused the horse to spook. It could have been a dog, a paper sack in the wind, a motorcycle or a person running down the sidewalk at a parade, really anything moving toward the horse at a pace faster than a walk. So, I guess I better get the horse conditioned to people running up to it. I don’t want to dull the horse so that they do not react to anything. I just don’t want the horse’s first reaction to be “RUN.” The goal is to get the horse to think about the situations before they react.

Start with a walk

Eventually I will train the horse to stay calm and relaxed as I run at him from any angle, ride a motorized vehicle around him, run by him with flags, etc. But to start, I will use a simple 5 minute exercise during feeding. When I go out to feed my young horses I will pet them on their head, back side, etc. Once they are calm I will then walk about 5 steps away from them, stop, turn and walk back towards them. I do this at a speed which might make them a bit uncomfortable but not enough to make them run. You have to use your judgment and read the horse. If you are unsure, start on the slow side and work your way up. Once I reach the horse I pet their head, back, etc. I repeat this about 8-10 times trying to increase my speed gradually. Remember, I do this when I feed my horses. I will be able to repeat this procedure many times each week, so I am not in a hurry to be able to run at the horse the first or second day. I will also change the angle which I approach my horse. I will walk at him from the side, at a 45 degree angle, etc. I also want to mention that I do not stare at my horse’s eyes when I approach. I look toward the ground, near his feet and do not assume an aggressive posture. I want to approach the horse but I do not want them to feel like I am going to eat them.

Conclusion

Eventually, you will be able to stare your horse in the face and run directly at him and the horse will stay calm and relaxed because they have thought about the situation and concluded that they are not going to die. Working with young horses in this way will help to prepare them for the regular ground work sessions and help them progress more rapidly.

Todd Mera is a Biochemist that has always had a love for horses. Todd started training horses in his 30s. He has worked with and trained many horse starting from birth and older problem horses. http://www.EverythingEquus.com

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Horse Training Facts And Maxims

 

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To the uninitiated horse owner, there are timely facts about horses they should know. In fact, when someone first gets a horse these timely facts should be studied and learned.

These timely facts come from the Jesse Beery horse training manual. Jesse Beery was a famous horse trainer from the 1800's. Interestingly, Beery's training methods are as powerful today as they were when Beery was alive.

Timely Fact #1:

Make your horse your friend, not your slave.

Timely Fact #2:

Almost every wrong act of the horse is caused by fear, excitement or mismanagement. One harsh word will increase the pulse of a nervous horse ten beats a minute. Hoses know nothing about balking until forced into it by bad management. Any balky horse an be started steady and true in a few minutes. I never found one that I could not teach to start his load in fifteen minutes and usually in three.

Timely Fact #3:

Intelligent horsemen have learned that kickers, biters and balkers are natural results of abuse, that not one horse in a hundred is vicious until made so by cruelty; that whipping a horse is as mean and senseless as whipping a baby, and that the most useful, obedient and long lived horses are those treated from birth with kindness and common sense.

Timely Fact #4:

The whip is the parent of stubborness, but gentleness wins obedience. There is no such thing as balkiness in a horse that is kindly treated, and that gets an occasional apple, potato or sugar from his master's hand.

Timely Fact #5:

When a hose is afraid or excited, quiet him by kind words and caress. An excited horse is practically crazy and to whip him is dangerous, foolish and cruel. I have known a single blow of the whip to balk a spirited horse. Whipping a balky horse is barbarous and only increases balkiness.

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

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Set Your Horse Training Objectives

 

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Training begins when you prepare your unbroken horse to be backed and ridden. Once he is broken in, you can get him to respond to your instructions so that you can get real enjoyment from riding him.
 

You may find that you can take your horse further with some dedicated training if you are interested in areas such as show jumping or dressage. Do bear in mind however, that the average horse and rider do not go this far, so don’t feel this has to be your next step. If you enjoy riding, continue getting pleasure from your riding and don’t worry about what else others are doing. There’s nothing nicer than feeling the breeze on your face as you ride through the countryside.
 

Although while learning to ride, you will have gained some experience from handling your horse unless you are an experienced horseman, with a thorough knowledge of horses and how they work, under no circumstances consider training a young horse on your own. Whatever your level of experience you should always work with a good assistant who should be of a quiet and reliable temperament and needless to say physically fit.
 

The next step is to get your aims clear and how best to achieve them. Your principle aim is that both you and your horse should enjoy the experience of riding. Your horse should be willing and able to listen to your instructions and obey them to the letter. This will mean designing specific training programmers and schedules and this is where understanding your horse comes into being.
 

It is also important to understand your horses’ anatomy and to recognize that it takes time with skilful and patient training to enable your horse to develop muscle, but his physical ability is just the start. Your horse must want to use his ability, for any horse that is overtaxed, he will become disobedient. To persuade the horse to work for you and with you at all times, it is important to understand his mentality as well as his anatomy.
 

Whilst horses have limited intelligence and powers of concentration they generally want to please. You need to encourage these qualities by making your training lessons simple and easy to understand. Plan each lesson in advance with specific goals in mind. You need to judge how much training your horse can take without getting bored or overworked. Keep your horses attention by varying your lessons and by keeping them short and to the point, but most importantly make them fun. The other key to success is to give praise as appropriate and to only use force as a last resort and then only to win a battle.
 

Make sure your horse understands the difference between “yes” and “no” by giving both praise and punishment, but limit punishment as much as possible because it can do more harm than good.
 

Remember your horse is not like a dog and cannot be bribed with tidbits to perform well. His reasoning powers are not developed in this way. The best way to reward him is through his sensitive response to feel and hearing — offer him a pat, a kind word or, best of all, release him from restraint.Ultimately training is always a two-way process you need to learn about your horse, so he can learn from you.

Roger Bourdon has written a number of books dedicated to horseback riding, horses and the health of horses. His site anyhorsebackriding.com is dedicated to lovers of horses. It contains plenty of free information in newsletters, articles and contains loads of resources all about horses. Products such as books and DVD's are also available for purchase

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Horse Pen Round Training

 

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Horse Care & Training Tips

 

>>  You Too Can Have a Beautifully Behaved Horse Click Here To Know HOW <<

 

Do you own a horse? If so, then you have questions about the care, feeding, shoeing, cost, etc. of horse ownership. The least expense of owning a horse, is the actual purchase. Once you have bought your horse, then your expenses begin: shoeing, de-worming, vaccinations, training, boarding, etc.

Horse Training Tip: Timing

Say you're trying to teach your horse to give to the bit.

When he gives you must instantly release the pressure. There are times I've seen people keep pulling on the reins "after" the horse gave to the pressure. No release, no learning.

The problem with that is the horse doesn't learn that he'll get a release. So if you keep pulling, there is no timing, there is no release, and you end up with garbage. Soon, the horse may fight you for control.

If he gets no release, then why comply. It is the release that teaches!

Timing is everything.

Currently I am training my mare with the Parelli methods of Horse-Man-Ship. I have seen the Parelli's in person, and just watching them, gives me goose bumps because of the love, language and leadership that I witnessed with my eyes. It was incredible. I want that kind of relationship with my mare, and I am doing everything possible to achieve this goal.

Visit the website to find out more useful information and tips on horese care and horse training. I will be putting the descriptions of the 7 Games here soon.

Happy Trails,
Nancy Nellis

Come and Visit Me In My Stable
http://www.HorseRidersInfo.net

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Horse Training 101

 

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Each horse is different in how it learns and how it reacts to outside stimuli. Certain methods of horse training may apply to some horses, but it does not mean that it will be effective to all breeds of horse.

To start horse training you must develop a communication system with the horse. This might take time. In the same way as children may not fully grasp the idea of things at an instant, baby horses in training may not get every pressure, pat or way of holding the reins at once.

When you apply a certain pressure, you expect a certain response. During horse training, you must make the horse understand that a certain pressure should elicit a corresponding response. We don’t expect full compliance in the beginning, but as time goes by, these actions will be part of the horse’s vocabulary.

Throughout the course of the horse training, one by one these actions will be added to his vocabulary. But these actions should still be broken down into minute details that the horse can take in one at a time. Learn how to pace with each individual horse. Training is something that should be done slowly and surely.

You must also learn how to “speak” to your horse in a way that it will be able to comprehend. This manner of speaking would mean fewer words and more body language.

Horses are herd animals. They learn well by imitating the leaders of the herd. You should be that “leader” your horse will follow. Patience is a key in training your horses.

You must also take into consideration that no one, animal or human, learns well when under stress. You should not force lessons into your horse during horse training. They don’t appreciate the yelling and whipping, especially if they do not know what all the harshness is for. Unlike humans who can speak their minds, horses resort to more physical responses. And you certainly wouldn’t want your horse to whirl, kick, strike and do out of hand movements.

You must create an environment wherein the horse can learn on its own, aside from the horse training that you give it. It is also important to see the difference between having been able to teach the horse something and it just accepting it. If a horse is relaxed when you do something, this does not necessarily mean that it is trained. This might just mean to it as another thing a human being normally does. Resistance at first is needed in order to see that the horse recognizes that something new is being taught to him.

The horse’s daily training routine should not be based on a set of particular things you want to teach to the horse. It should be based on how your horse reacts to your actions. Don’t teach something new to it without reviewing what it already knows.

Most importantly - don’t force your horse to go on horse training if it doesn’t feel well. A good routine does not only maintain the horse’s attention level, but also its comfort level.

Horses and Ponies Learn more at http://www.horseandponys.com/

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